July 1998, Weminuche Wilderness, Colorado. Jackie and Alan Ellis, Yukon, Oklahoma.

Trailhead: north end of Williams Creek Reservoir, 15 miles north of Pagosa Springs, Colorado at the end of Forest Service Road 640.

This would be our first major backpacking trip together. I was getting back into backpacking after a 15 year layoff and had previously done sections of the Appalachian Trail, Grand Canyon, and other areas of Colorado. We had done some smaller trips and day hikes for practice and training and decided on a multi-day trip in the Weminuche. After research I decided on the Williams Creek trail up to the Continental Divide, west to Squaw Pass, then back down the Cimmarona Trail, total of approx 25 miles. All the guide books rate this hike as moderate. 

We drove all day and camped at the Williams Creek Forest Service campground. We started early the next morning at 8400 ft. and started climbing at a moderate grade, passing through dense forests and wet meadows, and crossing Williams Creek two times. Parts of the trail was somewhat wet and muddy with lots of flies due to horse manure. We went approximately seven miles the first day and camped at approximately 10,000 ft. It was a well-worn campsite next to where the trail crossed Williams Creek. After dinner, we had just cleaned up when it started to storm. It hailed for fifteen minutes and when it was over, there was two inches of hail on the ground. I was thinking of how smart I was not to go cheap on the tent purchase....not a leak or a budge. However, Jackie wasn't feeling well and we would not realize why until later the next day.

After crossing Williams Creek, we started climbing steeply on a muddy trail, then had to cross the creek again just 100 yards further. Williams Creek is more like Williams "River." It's cold, fast, thigh-deep, and about 25 ft. across. We crossed it four times. The trail is steeper and Jackie is getting sicker. We both thought it was exhaustion. The clouds began to roll in as we reached the Divide at 12,400 ft.. We hunkered down to let the storm pass which it did without major incident. Jackie is sick as a dog and we still have a ways to go. Climbing again to the West on the Divide, Jackie is toughing it out. We make it to a saddle and then begin to descend to Squaw pass. Upon reaching the treeline, it began to rain and didn't stop until we reached Squaw Pass at about 11, 200 ft. We set up camp and Jackie crashed in the tent without eating. Guess what? Jackie had altitude sickness with all the classic signs....nausea, headache, etc. I thought about it and decided against a night descent to the trailhead. Besides, we would have to climb to get out of Squaw Pass and that wasn't happening with Jackie's condition. She needed rest. 

The next morning Jackie is better. She even fixed and ate breakfast. We took some time to enjoy the scenery which we missed while worrying about her condition the day before. A hiker with his dog came along and we met two others after we broke camp. We began to climb out of the pass to the South and reached a 12,000 ft. saddle with unbelievable views on a clear day. But in the distance we could see the clouds coming. The rest is five miles of steep downhill with a lot of the trail above treeline washed out. After the treeline, the trail turns to interminable steep switchbacks through dense forest. It starts to rain and only stopped when we reached the end of the trail. It was only a one mile hike down a dirt road to the car. This was our best day. Afterward, we checked into the nearest hotel and had a steak dinner.

Other than Jackie being sick on the second day, we had a great time. We originally planned for four days and three nights but decided to cut it short due to her condition. I would do it again but with more acclimation on the first day. We expected rain and storms so that did not bother us. 

Overall, it was a beautiful hike with hardly anyone else in the area. We learned a lot of lessons: Acclimate. Buy the best gear you can afford. Take your time and don't push......slow down and enjoy yourself and the scenery. Stay off ridges and above treeline in the afternoon.

AND..........plan another trip and go again with renewed confidence! (Which we have!)