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Guide
to Trekking Everest Area |
Posted:
Mar 24, 2003 9:13 AM |
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As most of
you know from my previous storytelling posts, my most recent trek was one to
Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. I had intended to post this post last
week, but experienced something a week ago that was necessary for me to post
first while it was fresh in my mind. Since that time, Sherpa Sandy posted
her post on a version of the same trek. So, I will now post my story, but
try to avoid duplicating most of the things found in her post. The focus of
this article will now be on the logistics of trekking to Everest Base Camp
by topic. I will then do a short day by day summary at the end.
KATHMANDU. Almost all trekkers to Nepal start and finish in Kathmandu. The
most popular part of this city for people to stay in is a district called
Thamel. Thamel is actually quite small, and can be walked end to end in 15
minutes or less. But, EVERYTHING can be found there, from cheap lodging to
expensive lodging to food of all kinds to internet cafes to trekking
agencies to outdoor shops to book and map shops to camera stores to
streetside sellers selling hash or fruit to places selling souvenirs.
Despite my personal dislike for the sellers here, I stay here every time for
the convenience of having things close at hand. There are other less
touristy places like Freak Street
ADVANTAGES TO THAMEL. Convenience! As I said, virtually anything can be
found here, and at pretty good prices.
DISADVANTAGES TO THAMEL. It is a hassle walking the streets, as sellers
won’t go away after you say “no.” I’m sorry to say that the worst are the
musicians. They are from a music training school, but spend the bulk of
their time on the streets trying to sell serengges and drums. I called them
“musical prostitutes” and wrote their instructor a letter after I got back
here (had his business card). Also bad are the bicycle rickshaw drivers and
the fruit vendors, of all people! I got so sick of hearing “yes, friend?”
that I started looking around saying “No, I don’t see any of my friends."
PLACES TO SEE AROUND KATHMANDU.
1. I must first list Durbar Square, Kathmandu, because it is the one place
that you can get an overview of the architecture and history of the temples
in a close concentration. Take a rickshaw there and pay 125 or 150 rupees
for someone to be your guide. It is worth it.
2. My personal favorite, though, is Pashuputinath. This is the cremation
site for Nepali Hindus. There are many temples and shrines in the area, and
7 cremation platforms that the son of the deceased build funeral pyres on
for the cremation. He also shaves his head and dresses in white, not black.
Again, I recommend paying the 150 rupees for a guide here.
3. The Monkey Temple sits on a hill overlooking Kathmandu. Due to haze,
though, the views of the city are not as good as in the past. But, the
temple grounds and stupa are worth going up here. No guide really needed
here.
4. Bauddinath. This is the largest stupa in Nepal. As usual, it has eyes on
all four sides. And, it is surrounded by vendors all the way around. Most
common are the CD/cassette stores, most of which will be playing that same
“Om Mani Padme Hum” cassette. As with all such religious objects in Nepal,
go clockwise and pass right shoulder to the stupa. A guide is not necessary.
5. Bhaktapur. This is an outlying town a few kilometers away from Kathmandu,
which I highly recommend if you have the time. Hire a driver to take you
there and wait for your return trip, or take a local bus (cheaper). I do
recommend hiring a guide for about 200 rupees here to show you all the
things that are in this town. It will take two or three hours to really
start to see this area.
6. Patan. Another outlying town closer to Kathmandu. I couldn’t find any
guides here, so had to make due with the brochure at the booth where I paid
my entry fee. Similar to Bhaktapur, and would be good with a guide.
TWO TYPES OF TREK.
1. Agency Trek. This type of trek is through an agency either in the states
or in Kathmandu. You can arrange one of these in Kathmandu with only a
month’s notice, especially as tourism is down now due to the war situation.
The agency trek can be where you just have a guide/porter with you, and they
show you the way and lodges to spend the night, etc. Or, the agency trek can
be one that arranges EVERYTHING. You just show up, and they have all food
provided, tents and camping gear and all food. You just walk. This is the
type that it appears that Sherpa Sandy did.
ADVANTAGES. The advantages to an agency trek is that you don’t have to do
any planning, other than your airfare, and often not even that. You just
have to show up. The itinerary is set and you don’t have to spend hours
figuring out day by day where you want to go while looking at maps. And, all
food is provided, and it is very good food.
DISADVANTAGES. The cost will be more with an agency trek because they do all
the planning and purchasing of supplies. And, the itinerary is usually set
with no flexibility. And, the bulk of the cost stays in Kathmandu with very
little going to the local economy. Agency guides and porters don’t like
these because they make very little money.
2. Independent Trek. This is what I did because I love maps and planning.
And, I wanted to set the itinerary due to my limited time. With an
independent trek, you either carry your own pack or hire a porter. You walk
as long or far as you wish, and choose a lodge/hotel in the village of your
choice, and buy food there for dinner and breakfast. Rooms are cheap, as you
are expected to eat at the same place you lodge. Food is not cheap, and gets
more expensive the higher you go.
ADVANTAGES. You get to set the itinerary and choose where you stay each
night. And, it is a little cheaper.
DISADVANTAGES. You have to do all the planning. And, if something goes
wrong, you don’t have licensed people there to help.
PORTERS? This is a topic I’ve seen some in the Backpacker forums, but more
often on the Lonely Planet website. My stance on this issue is simple.
Although I had a light pack (just a bag, a change of clothes, snack food and
a few other small things), I hired a porter. I think that anyone that can
afford a plane ticket to Kathmandu can afford $8-$10 per day for a porter or
guide to Everest or $4-$7 for Annapurna. I gave a guy a job each time. But,
I DIDN’T go through an agency either time. I don’t like $2 per day staying
in Kathmandu. I hired someone off the streets that I knew from October when
I was there the first time and wanted to go with me. In fact, he skipped out
of his agency to trek with me (off-season). I gave him agency rate, though,
and it all went to him. Porters get cheap or free food if they bring clients
to certain lodges or hotels. You will be expected to pay for the porter’s
trip back to Kathmandu by air if you got your porter there.
Regarding porters, I have seen much abuse of porters. People yelling at the
porter, bossing them around, etc. I had 30 candy bars and 20 bags of peanuts
along, which I shared with my porter each day. And, up high where it was
cold, I had hot chocolate or apple cider for both of us. The worst treatment
of porters I saw were the agencies, of all people! They will often have one
porter carry the gear for two or three people, each of who pays full price.
The porter carries a huge load for a day’s pay while the agency pockets the
payment from the other one or two people.
MAPS AND GUIDES. Many bookstores in Thamel have these, as well as postcards.
Maps are the Nepa Maps, which are easy to find. I prefer the Schneider Maps,
which are harder to find but more detailed. Most trekkers were using the
Lonely Planet guidebooks. I actually preferred the Trailblazer Series book
called “Trekking the Everest Region.” The maps and descriptions and times
given I thought superior.
FOOD. On the trail, the higher you go, the more expensive the food. And, it
is limited. That is why people get to Namche Bazar and buy things like Yak
Steak, which are hard to find in the regular lodges. Typical food found
everywhere is monotonous.
BREAKFAST. Toast-plain, cheese, French. Tibetan bread. Pancake-plain,
chocolate, cheese, cinnamon. Cereal-Corn Flakes, Muesli, porridge.
Eggs-Boiled, scrambled, omelette-cheese, onion, veg.
SOUP. Chicken, garlic, onion, cream of . . ., egg drop, sherpa stew.
DRINKS. Hot water, coffee, black tea, milk tea, butter tea, lemon tea,
ginger tea. Coke, Fanta Sprite. Tuborg, Carlsberg, San Miguel beers. Soft
drinks and beer were $4 by the time we got near base camp.
RICE. Dal Bhat (national dish). Fried rice with egg, veg, cheese, meat, egg
+ veg, egg + cheese, egg + meat, veg + cheese, veg + meat, cheese + meat.
NOODLE. Fried noodles with egg, veg, cheese, meat, egg + veg, egg + cheese,
egg + meat, veg + cheese, veg + meat, cheese + meat.
SPRING ROLL. With egg, veg, cheese, meat, egg + veg, egg + cheese, egg +
meat, veg + cheese, veg + meat, cheese + meat.
POTATO. Boiled, roasted, fried with egg, veg, cheese, meat, egg + veg, egg +
cheese, egg + meat, veg + cheese, veg + meat, cheese + meat.
COSTS. My costs per day were $11, not including the porter. It would have
been under $10 (I was told this was impossible) if I hadn’t bought expensive
items like sodas or Pringles! With the porter’s cost and airfare included,
my price was between $23 and $24 per day. Of course, these costs do not
include my own airfare, and film and developing. But, it does include
laundry at Namche Bazar and things like the entry permit into the national
park.
GOKYO OR BASE CAMP?. There are two main valleys in the Everest area. One, of
course is Lobuche, Gorak Shep, Kala Pattar, and the Base Camp. The other is
up Gokyo Valley. More people who I’ve talked with who have done both have
recommended Gokyo Valley. The views from Gokyo Ri Peak are said to be better
than those from the valley leading towards Everest. I didn’t have time to
get here, unfortunately. There is another smaller side valley towards
Chukung, which I did get into and loved.
START AT JIRI OR LULKA? The traditional route starts at Jiri at road’s end.
But, with the airstrip at Lukla, the majority of trekkers fly in and out of
Lukla, saving several days of walking. I hiked in from Jiri (had to do it at
least once), but flew back from Lukla. Jiri will add about 6 days of walking
each way. Jiri to Namche Bazar is normally done in 8 days. With my long days
and short schedule, I got there in 6.
ADVANTAGES TO JIRI. You get to see the traditional route. You will get in
shape and acclimatized before getting to Lukla. The rivers run north and
south, and you walk west to east. This means 4 river crossings with high
ridges in between before you reach the Dudh Kosi, which drains the Everest
area. You will see relatively few other trekkers for your first five or six
days or so.
DISADVANTAGES TO JIRI. A dangerous bus ride (especially if the road is wet).
This trail is steeper and more difficult that the trail above Lukla. Maoists
are active in this area. They left me alone because I hired a Nepali as a
porter. A British guy a day behind me was chased for two hours with a hand
grenade, and another trekker that same day had a Maoist go through his pack
and decide that his Leatherman pocket tool was a worthy donation.
HOW LONG? These are my recommendations including seeing the Chukung Valley,
Kala Pattar/Base Camp AND Gokyo with most side trips. Each also includes a
layover in Namche Bazar both ways.
30 days (plus 2 for bus trips). Hiking in AND out from Jiri.
24 days (plus a day for bus and a half day for plane). Hike in from Jiri,
and fly out from Lukla.
18 days (includes the day you fly in, but not the fly-out day). Fly to and
from Lukla.
I did the 2nd option, minus the Gokyo sidetrips, and got done in 15 days due
to LONG days.
Subtract a day if you cut to Gokyo via the Cho La Pass.
I started hiking mid-range in the times given in the Trailblazer guide
between villages, and by day 4 was hiking nearer the shorter times in the
range given, as I was in shape.
MY TREK.
FEBRUARY 19. A hair-raising bus trip to Jiri from Kathmandu. Would have been
okay if not raining. Stayed at the Sagarmatha Lodge (recommended).
FEBRUARY 20. Steep trail up to Chitre and over a pass. Down through Mali
Village and a beautiful location for a school to Shivalaya where I had
lunch. STEEP climb at the end of the day from there up to the Chodung nak
(female yak) cheese factory (closed in winter) and down the ridge to Deorali.
Stayed at the Highland Sherpa Lodge (nice family-run place we had to
ourselves). My porter found an alcoholic beverage there that was drunk hot
through a sieve-straw, as it was in a mash.
FEBRUARY 21. Descended with school children through the village Bhandar,
where 300 Maoists had a rally two days after I passed through. Those hikers
mentioned earlier said it was like a fortress. Contoured over to Kenja,
where I had lunch. I caught up to my first trekkers who had started a day
ahead of me. VERY STEEP climb at the end of the day to Sete Village. Stayed
there after climbing 3000 feet. 3000 feet of the climb still remained!
Stayed at the Sherpa Guide Lodge (highly recommended). Maoists in this
village had a microphone telling villagers not to give business to
foreigners, which our hosts ignored. We watched them making a batch of chang
(local alcoholic beer).
FEBRUARY 22. Continued climbing through Dogchu, where there was school with
the best views I’ve ever seen. Climbed through 3 feet of snow packed down by
porters carrying as much as 100 kilos to Lamjung La. The snow was from the
same storm as the one on the 19th during my bus ride. On the other side, we
descended to Tragobuk, where we had lunch (not recommended). Contoured to
Junbesi, where most agencies spend the night. Instead, we continued another
hour and a half to another nak cheese factory and the Everest View Hotel
(recommended). Perched on a hillside, we of course were fogged in. But, it
was a great place with good views in the morning.
FEBRUARY 23. The hardest day of the trek, as well as the longest. We
contoured over to the next river and the village of Ringmo. A short climb
over Trakshindo La and then began the longest descent of the trip. We went
through Trakshindo village and visited the gompa (monastery) there.
Descended to Nuntala where we ate at the first lodge (NOT recommended).
Continued descending to the Dudh Kosi, 4500 feet or more below Trakshindo
La. Climbed uphill past Jubing village to Kharikhola. Stayed at the Everest
Khumbu Lodge (not recommended). They had an environmental shower, but the
faucet wouldn’t shut off and I hollered for ten minutes before they turned
it off from inside. The sun had set, and it was COLD. I got sick as a result
of this.
FEBRUARY 24. Foggy and rainy, as we ascended past Bupsa and then contoured
before climbing to Lukla. Got there and changed my plane ticket on Yeti
Airlines to one day later, giving me 15 days instead of 14 days! Stayed at
the Karma Inn (highly recommended),which also has a pool hall. The Sherpa
there who owns the place actually worked in Crested Butte, Colorado for 2
months prior to 9/11 in 2001. He had seen, and remembered, the school where
I teach in Gunnison! I have the address of his son in Denver.
FEBRUARY 25. Hiked through many villages to Namche Bazar. As agencies always
sleight other villages in favor of Phakding, I spent my rupees each way in
other villages. I liked the high, rickety bridge 100 feet above the Dudh
Kosi preceding the climb to Namche! In Namche Bazaar, I paid $6 for 20
minutes of internet, did laundry, and found a bakery. Stayed at the Sun Site
Hotel (neutral on this one – wasn’t special, but wasn’t bad). Got an ear
infection as a result of that shower two days earlier, and wax clogged my
ear. Couldn’t hear well out of that ear until back in Kathmandu!
FEBRUARY 26. Most people take a layover in Namche, but as I was
acclimatized, we continued on. Got our first good view of Everest, with the
“scarf” of snow blowing in a plume from the summit some 20 miles to the
right. I’ve read that it can blow up to 30 miles, as the tip of the mountain
is in the jet stream. More impressive, though, was Ama Dablam Peak, which
was my favorite for the next several days. Went only as far as Tengboche,
which is the site of the most holy gompa for the Sherpas. Stayed at the
Gomba Lodge (recommended), along with a Scottish guy, two from Japan, and
three from Korea (they had 1 porter carrying ALL their gear, but had each
paid full price). We all played cards with a deck I had brought along.
FEBRUARY 27. Descended and contoured through Deboche to Pangboche, and then
went upstream to Dingboche (love these names!). Got there in time for lunch,
which we had at the Sonam Friendship Lodge (highly recommended) that we
camped at. The owner is a climbing sirdar who knows some people that I know
here in Leh, including the guy here who was the youngest to summit Everest
in 1965 when he made his ascent. After lunch, my porter (Sudip Lama) and the
two Japanese went up a peak right above Dingboche. Forgot to drink water,
though, and paid for it with an altitude headache!
FEBRUARY 28. Stayed at the same place. Hiked in to Chukung, and climbed
Chukung Ri, which was my favorite sidetrip of the entire trek. It had great
views of the back side of Nuptse, as well as Island Peak, Ama Dablam, and
the only place in the Khumbu where you can see Makalu.
MARCH 1. Contoured over to Tukcha with the Japanese and Koreans, and went up
to Lobuche for lunch. The other groups stayed there, while I went up to
Gorak Shep and stayed at the Snowland Hotel (recommended). I had friends
stay at the other place, which they said was also good. Highest campsite of
my life at 17,000 feet or so.
MARCH 2. Made the mistake of doing both Kala Pattar (super views of the
Everest area), and Base Camp in the same day. The yak trail in to Base Camp
isn’t firmly established yet, and rock cairns misled me more than once. Got
back after sunset and had another headache, despite making sure I drank
enough water this time. I broke down and took a diamox, which helped. But,
then I got up four times during the night to take care of “business.”
MARCH 3. Still had a small headache, so descended as quickly as I could.
Went past Lobuche, and had lunch at Tukcha with the British guy who had been
chased with the hand grenade. I had last seen him after the bus ride in Jiri
and got ahead of him. After lunch, descended to Pheriche, and then Pangboche.
At 14,000 feet, I felt great! Stayed at the Gomba Lodge here (would be
recommended, except for a large agency group camped in the yard-I tripped
over tents trying to get to the outhouse at night).
MARCH 4. As weather was great, I didn’t need that extra day up high that I
gained by changing my airline flight. So, I had an extra day to play. So, I
got half of the way into Gokyo valley. Went to Phortse, and contoured on the
east high trail to Na, crossed the rivers on bridges, and climbed to the
trail contouring back south on the west side of the valley part way. Camped
at Paradise Lodge (highly recommended) in the village Luza.
MARCH 5. Horrible ice lingering yet from February 19. Also mud. Steep trail
on these made for slow going. Once clear of this trail at noon, it was easy
walking back to Namche Bazar. This time stayed at the Namche Bazar Lodge
(neutral, but it was good). Again hit the bakeries and laundry in town, but
skipped internet.
MARCH 6. Returned to Lukla via the same route as the 25th, with nothing
notably different. That is, except for many more trekkers heading in. March
1st seems to be the date when trekkers start increasing in this area. Again
stayed at the Karma Inn and beat my porter at pool, which is amazing (I play
about once a year).
MARCH 7. Flight out of Lukla via Yeti Airlines. Fog delayed the flight for 2
hours. They rang a siren when the plane took off from Kathmandu headed this
way. That was our signal to head through security from our hotels. That
runway is on a slant, and they gun the engine and release the brakes when
the tires start skidding on the concrete. We were in the air before the
cliff at the end of the runway. Got back to Kathmandu and had my ear wax
flushed out, did internet, and a bunch of shopping.
MARCH 8. Sightseeing at Pashuputinath and Bhaktapur (see above).
MARCH 9. Sightseeing at Patan (see above). Evening flight back to Delhi.
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I Love the Mountains |
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