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To all
Backpacker readers and friends,this is an experiment; I've never tried
to post maps like this on the internet. But, to give you a better
picture of where I am and my surroundings, this attempt hopefully will
work. EDITING UPDATE: The maps worked well on my Yahoo draft, and also
looked good on this screen. But, when I posted here and previewed my
post, I found that everything was scrunched to the left like the site
can not read spaces. So, I have deleted the maps. I'll still leave the
keys and references to the maps. If you want to see them, please email
me and I'll send them to you via email. That should work better. Sorry!
COME TO LEH! Today, I am going to tell you how to get here, and what to
expect enroute to Leh, the capital of Ladakh province of the state of
Jammu and Kashmir in India. Next week, I hope to post about my living
conditions, and life in general in this city.
Jammu and Kashmir is the northernmost state in India, and is the place
where there is conflict between Pakistan and India. Pakistan, in fact,
has control of over a third of this state, and there is a Line of
Control, which has been pretty much the same now for years, without
movement on either side. To the west lies the country of Pakistan. To
the far north and west is Afghanistan. To the northeast and east lies
Tibet, which is controlled by China.
KEY TO THE FIRST MAP WHICH DIDN'T WORK
CITIES: Is = Islamabad, Pakistan, M = Manali
J = Jammu K = Kargil S = Srinigar
L = Leh K2 = K2
x = J + K boundary c = Line of control between India and Pakistan
To get here, you must first travel to Delhi by plane. Delhi is located
one day's drive by bus south of Manali on the map above. You can either
go the Pacific or Atlantic route, and I have done both. The cheapest is
flying across the Atlantic from an international airport in the states.
You will have to change planes in either London, Amsterdam or Frankfort
for a plane to Delhi. Expect both of these flights to be 2-movies and
2-meals long! I found that Amsterdam to Delhi via KLM Airline to be
excellent. Going the Pacific route, though more expensive, gives you the
chance to visit places like Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore or Bangkok on
the way there if you have the time and money.
Once in Delhi, you will need a place to stay. The two areas for the
tourist are Connaught Circle and Paharganj. Connaught Circle is more
modern, and is walking distance from stores with things you may want or
need, the post office, and airline offices. I found a place there for $2
for a dormitory bed. It is Sunny Guesthouse in Scindia House near
Janpath on the south side of the circle. A separate room was $3. Great
restaurants nearby, and a Tibetan Market within a short walk. The other
place to stay is Paharganj. There are so many places to stay there, that
I can not mention them. My favorite is Amax Inn, which is off the Main
Bazaar on a side street, and then in an alley off of that street. But,
other places are good. Prices here range from $6 (no A/C) to $10 (with
A/C).
This is the "real" India. All local people, crowds, sidewalk vendors and
very few tourist type items. But, because of this, I prefer this area.
Most people get out of that city as quick as possible, though. It is hot
and uncomfortable for much of the year. And, scams abound. So, get out
of that city, and come to Leh. I'll post separately about Delhi another
time.
From Delhi to Leh, you have two options. The first is to fly, and the
second is to take a bus. Flying here can be done by Indian Airlines and
Jet Airways. Two years ago, I flew by Indian airlines. Despite a 4 1/2
hour delay, I had no real problems. But, I have heard horror stories
about this airline, including one just today! They have done me well
going to Nepal, though. Jet Airways is very good. The disadvantage to
flying is that both airlines leave at 5:30 to 6:30 in the morning. So,
to get to the airport to check in, it means getting up at 3:00 or
3:30AM, and taking a taxi to the airport. If weather is good here in Leh,
as it usually is, there should be no delays. Leh is a military airport,
the highest maintained airport in the world. So, security will be tight.
They x-ray all checked bags, and hand examine carry-ons at least twice.
I was frisked also going through security. And, you have to identify
your bags, so that they get on the plane. After all this, you take a bus
to the plane and board.
The first part of the flight will be over of the smog of Delhi and areas
north. Within a half hour, though, you will be going over the heavily
glaciated peaks of the Great Himalayan Range, which extends east and
south through the width of Nepal to the eastern end in Nagaland. Some of
the glaciers are impressive! Heading further north, the peaks become
higher, but the snow less, as you are now in the rain shadow. This is
why trekking is so good here during the Indian monsoon. A large gorge to
the left heading north and south is the Zanskar gorge. To the right, you
will see a large lake, which is Tso Kar, the salt lake. When you see a
large east-west valley, you are getting close. That is the Markha
Valley, the most famous trek here. On the 2nd map above, this route is
marked by t's. Roads are x's. The second large valley is the Indus River
Valley, where Leh, Stok, Spitok, Choglamsar (Tibetan refugee village),
Sabu, Phyang, Nimu, Basgo and Hemis are located on the map. You may get
a glimpse of the Nubra Valley further north, although you won't fly that
far. Beyond the Nubra Valley, K2 can be seen to the Northwest, as an
unmistakable snowcapped pyramid. The tallest peak near the Indus River
and Leh is Stok Kangre at 20,180 feet, which I did in August and marked
with an @ sign.
You will be descending quite rapidly, although my altimeter was actually
climbing. It takes two passes over Leh for the plane to drop far enough
to land due to peaks several thousand feet above the city. The first
pass goes close to Stok Kangri. The second pass over the city gets quite
close, and you can see the Shanti Stupa and the old palace if you know
where to look. The plane then goes through a notch in the mountain
almost grazing the wings of the plane to the valley where Phyang is
located. The plane banks sharp left and doubles back over the Indus
River to the airport in Leh. As soon as the wheels hit the pavement,
maximum deceleration takes place unlike any I've experienced anywhere
else. After 20 seconds of this, the plane taxis, and the passengers
usually applaud.
There is an arguement whether flying or bus is better. Those who argue
for bussing state that you go from low altitude in Delhi directly to Leh
at 11,500 feet. Yes, this means you better NOT go out walking that first
day. Just rest up and take it easy for one or two days. BUT, I argue for
the flight because the first day of bus from manali actually stops for
the night a lot higher than Leh, and I've known people coming here to
get sick. From Delhi to Leh right now takes three days, although due to
military paving and widening the road it will be two days in a year or
two. The first day from Leh to Manali is a good road, so the drivers are
able to drive recklessly. If going this way, Manali is worth spending
two or three days or more, as there is a lot to see. Manali to here now
takes two days. This goes over four passes, getting almost as high as
18,000 feet. The camping place is at 14,000 feet or 13,000 feet,
depending on where the bus stops. The roads are narrow, winding, and
often one laned. Expect spectacular views, and expect to re-discover
your childhood prayers on a couple of those passes. You will arrive here
late afternoon of the second day. Take the deluxe bus, not the public
bus.
Once in Leh, there will be no shortage of drivers to drive you into
town. Do not book guesthouses or hotels in Delhi. They only completely
fill up during the visits by the Dalai Lama. Anyone who comes I will
steer towards my favorite three places. But, almost any will be
respectable. Coming into town, you will take the road furthest right on
the above map. This will take you past the bus stand, past the old bus
stand, and then up to the Main Bazaar area. If you have a hotel booked
on Old Leh Road or Fort Road, your driver may take you up that way. Old
Leh Road is actually now the quickest way into the center of town. Most
tourists like the German bakeries here, so I have indicated about 7 of
them with a "B" on the map. The Main Bazaar is where most of the
activity centers. What is amazing is that the church, the mosque and the
Buddhist gompa are all one block from each other. A post office is also
on the Main Bazaar. Tourist shops selling carpets and shawls and other
things are on all of the main roads shown here. I'll talk about those
another time on another post. If you go west from the church on Chanspa
Road, you pass my school, as well as another bakery, guesthouses,
hotels, and eventually the steps leading up to the Japanese Shanti Stupa.
Being a Japanese zen stupa, it doesn't belong here, as zen is NOT
practiced by local Buddhists. But, they had the money, so it was built.
Pretty at night, as it is lit up. Above the school is a pond, which is
frozen for skating and hockey in winter time. It is near the District
Commissioner's house. This house has round-the-clock guards, which are
now friends of mine. My house is above that on the right of the two
branching roads. So, now that you know where I live and how to get here
COME TO LEH AND VISIT AND TREK!
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I love the mountains! |
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