I arrived in Ladakh on July 4th this year to find that the school session ended July 5th. So, I had one day to meet the students before they left. Following that, I was involved with music concerts in Leh on the 9th and 10th. With no school until July 23rd, the headmaster suggested I go on a trek.

Having done four treks in 2000 while here, I found the one remaining trek in my guidebook that I had time to do which most appealed to me. And that, was the Nubra Trek. The problem is that the Nubra area is a restricted area near the "line of control" between India and Pakistan. So, I paid the money and got a special permit to trek in that area. After hiring ponies and a pony walla, I was on my way.

Although I never heard any Paki artillery shells, I did hear one blast which turned out to by dynamite from a road they were improving. There is nothing like the threat of war to help bring about road construction and improvement. I've heard that they are widening the Manali-Leh road to four lanes (except for the passes) so that they can get army up here in one day! One friend joked about these improvements. He said that we need a war with China so they will improve and put metal on the road between Spiti and Delhi.

The Nubra Trek was similar to the other treks I have done in Ladakh. Here is what you can expect:
1. Expect high passes going higher than 4850 meters (16,000 feet).
2. Expect campsites that can be higher than any of the peaks in Colorado.
3. Expect to hire ponies at about $5 per day per horse (unless going on a "deluxe" trek that includes horses, a guide, a cook, and all gear).
4. Expect your pony walla to be a Tibetan refugee who will become a great friend in a week's time.
5. Expect at least one section of trail on each trek to be a cliffside route above a raging river.
6. Expect spectacular scenery.
7. Expect to purify all water. No matter how high you walk or camp, there will always be yaks and pashmina goats grazing higher.

Now, I will give specific details of my trek.

Day 0 - July 11. This day was the day before my trek. Although I had agreed on the route and price with the trekking agency, I had to re-negotiate with the ponyman. He said my 9-day trek is usually a 14 day trek, and isn't possible in less than 11 days. I knew otherwise, and that he was trying to get 2 more days' wages out of his horses for the same distance!

Day 1 - July 12. A hard day. I started at 8:30 in the morning on a steep trail at the upper end of the village of Sabu, and never leveled off until I reached my campsite. I stopped for water at every 500 feet gain according to my altimeter:
8:40 - Started at 12,150 feet.
9:15 - Break at 12,500 feet. Took off long-sleeved shirt.
10:00 - Break at 13,000 feet. Added sunscreen to my arms. Have a wide-brimmed hat protecting my face.
10:45 - Break at 13,500 feet.
11:25 - Break at 14,000 feet. Had lunch.
12:00 - Started walking again.
1:00 - Break at 14,500 feet.
1:40 - Break at 15,000 feet. Put long-sleeves back on.
2:15 - Break at 15,500 feet. Stopped for a nap to get rid of altitude headache.
2:30 - Started walking, went over one small knoll to find my ponywalla with his tent set up!
My campsite tonight I gave a "10" rating. Great views AND water! Bad headache, though, as I am sleeping 4,000 feet higher than yesterday.

Day 2 - July 13. Climbed up to Digar La at 5300 meters (17,250 feet). Started at 8:15 and arrived at 10:30. The Swiss party who camped with me yesterday and today arrived at 12:00 and were in bad shape due to altitude. The horses from both parties got to the top at 11:00, and immediately went down the north side. They had camp set up an hour before I arrived. Another "10" at 15,000 feet. That's right, I never went below 15,000 today.

Day 3 - July 14. A much easier day than the first two. I told Tundob, my ponyman, that I wanted a longer day. So, we covered what is usually done in 2 days, but were still camped before 5:00 PM. We descended to the village of Digar, where there was a temple built onto a rock. At this village, Tundob bought grass for the horses from a lady, who also gave us both tsampa. This is barley flour mixed into kurd (yogurt). From Digar, we went down to a plateau, and then down a final 1000 feet to the Shyok River Valley. On this descent, there were 90 donkeys, 15 horses and 2 yaks on their way up loaded down with supplies for Digar. Instead of going on the cliff trail avoiding the river, Tundob opted to cross the river channel twice. We promptly got a horse stuck in 3-feet of quicksand. Nearby Indians came to help, and after 45 minutes we got the horse out by pulling it on its side by the main and tail.

Day 4 - July 15. The easiest day of the trek. Due to military tensions, we were on road all day, most of it not in my trail guide that was only 4 years old. We went to the village of Rong, then up to the highway coming over from Leh, which we followed to Khalsar. We arrived at 1:00, and the military checked my permit. I stayed in a guesthouse (without a toilet) due to no level camping spots.

Day 5 - July 16. Our longest day. We followed roads, and shortcuts across plains, to the villages of Deskit and Hundar. On the way, we saw bacterian (2-humped) camels. These are the descendants of the camels that were trapped here in the 1950's when the central Asian trade routes (think Marco Polo) over Khyber and Karakoram Passes closed. This happened when India and Pakistan became independent and hostile countries, and when China became communist. We arrived in Hundar after 5:00, and found a camping place that allowed horses.

Day 6 - July 17. This was the day Tundob had warned me about. Although we gained 2,400 feet between campsites, my altimeter showed a total of almost 5,000 feet of accumulated elevation. This is because the route went up 1000 feet, then down 300 feet repeatedly. This is to avoid the nasty river gorge. The trail climbed up side canyons, out onto plateaus high above the river, then descended to river level via cliffy trails. At least they were wide enough. We had lunch at the place where trekkers usually camp after leaving Hundar. After lunch, we had more of the same, and some nastier trail before the village of Wanchan. Here, there was a bridge with no support over the river. Just two logs with cross beam planks. We reached the village of Brok Goma and were given tea and tsampa by a nice family in a modest hut. Part of my mission was as a scouting mission for the school. I was to look for young children from poorer families who knew some English and had relatives in Leh. I came back with three names for potential scholarships, including the boy from this house. Today's campsite was again a "10."

Day 7 - July 18. Today was a shorter day just going uphill to base camp for Lasermo La. At 16,200 feet, this was my highest campsite. Another "10." The only downer was that a guy charged me camping rupees. But, his hut was 9 kilometers before where we ended up camping. I can't believe that he owns that much valley!

Day 8 - July 19. We got up at 2:30 AM, and were walking by 4:00. Tundob wanted to cross the snowfields of Lasermo La (5300 meters, 17,250 feet) before they softened up, so that we could get the horses across. We were on top by 6:00 when the sun hit the area. Then, we stopped and had breakfast and took an hour-long break. Our descent was another 2 hours of walking, and we camped at the first nice spot at 9:00 AM. Yaks were grazing around the camp, and the views were not quite as good, so this camp ranked an "8." After a nap, I read some, and taught Tundob card games. Although I didn't tell him the names of the games, I taught him "Go fish," "Crazy Eights," and "War." He liked war best and really got into that game.

Day 9 - July 20. Down valley today to the village of Phyang. There, I paid Tundob his balance, and caught a transport back here to Leh. On the descent, two ladies had me take their picture. They, of course, want a copy and told me to give it to the daughter of one of them who goes to the girl's high school in Leh.

In all, it was a great trek. I am looking for interested persons for other Ladakh treks. One is the winter trek of the Zanskar River (on the ice) to the village of Lingshed. This trek will be in January or February, and is 9 days long. The other trek is one to the Rupshu area in July next year. I am looking at 2-3 weeks with ponies into a fairly remote area. But, I know 3 ponymen who know the routes, and one has agreed to be the guide if I want him. Trekkers who have done this one list it as their favorite. Let me know if you are interested. In Nepal, I will still be doing Annapurna circuit in October, and Everest Base Camp in late February or early March. I'll take any interested people with me on those, as well.